How to stitch an enclosed chunky zipper to Swim & Active wear garments.
Swim Style patterns.
This method has been devised especially for high stretch Swim & Active style fabrics.
There are several ways to sew an enclosed chunky zipper onto high stretch fabrics.
I feel this method addresses many of the problems which occur when attempting to stitch a zipper into high stretch fabrics.
Most importantly -You will need an Open-ended chunky zipper and light weigh sew on interfacing.
It’s not possible to follow this tutorial using a closed chunky zipper. This may seem a little unusual, but it will make sense as you follow the instructions. The interfacing helps to stabilize the seams and makes it easier to sew the zipper to the fabric. Please note – Purchase sew on interfacing not iron / fusible interfacing.
This tutorial can be used to sew an enclosed chunky zipper into many of our Swim style patterns which use the exposed zipper method.
You will need an open-ended chunky zip & Light weight sew on interfacing.
Please note- method will not work with a closed end chunky zipper & Fusible interfacing.
Illustrations show the front section of the Junior Splashy Rashie suit in this tutorial.
You can use a straight stitch as you follow these directions.
Measure your zipper length.
Cut interfacing Cut 1 piece of the interfacing as shown.
Length 5cm or 2 inches longer than the zipper.
Width 5cm / 2 inches For example, zipper length =25cm /10 inches
Cut interfacing Length 30cm / 12 inches Width of 5cm or 2 inches.
Cut out the fabric piece of which you are sewing the zipper onto.
Fold interfacing & front section in half, length ways to find centre lines. Press or mark centre fold line on both with tailors chalk. Pin interfacing to wrong side of front section. Align the centre fold lines of interfacing & front section.
Stay Stitch interfacing to wrong side of front section at centre line, stitch the entire length of interfacing.
This will also create a guide line to stitch the zipper to front section.
Sewing hint -Stay stitch -Select the longest stitch length to sew a stay stitch.
Place zipper face down on the right side of front section. ( Right sides together) Unzip zipper as shown .
Swap the zipper sides over,so the teeth are on the outer edges as shown.
For the next step we will sew one side of the zipper in first.
Zipper right sides down,
Align the tape edge of zipper to the centre front line.
Top end of zipper teeth aligned to the seam allowance of neckline.
For this pattern seam allowance at neckline =1cm or 3/8 inch.
Right sides together,Stitch one side of zipper to front section.As shown.
End stitch line 3 cm or 1 ¼ inch from the lower edge of zipper tab.
( Leave the lower end of the zipper unsewn.) (Stitch through zipper tape,front section & interfacing )
(You can use a straight stitch to stitch the zipper to garment.)
Repeat the step, stitch in remaining zipper side to front section.
As you can see I have stitched down the middle of each zipper tape using my standard foot.
I stitch a long stay stitch first, then attach my zipper foot to stitch the 2nd row of stitching close to the zipper teeth on each side.
I recommend stitching the 2nd row about 3mm or 1/8 inch in from the zipper teeth.
End 2nd row of stitching 3cm / 1 ¼ inches from zipper end.
Cut / slash the front section + interfacing at centre front line from the top to 4cm / 1 5/8 inch from lower end of zip.
This cut/ slash line should end 1cm or 3/8 above stitching lines on each side of zipper.
Take care not to cut zipper tape, only cut front section & interfacing.
Place top section right sides face down. Before you clip the opening, unpick the row 1 stitches (inside rows) on each side of the zipper at the lower end
Make a Diagonal downwards, through front section & interfacing.
Clip from end of centre front slash line to each end of row 2 stitching lines as shown. (Rows closest to zipper teeth)
(The same method as clipping a corner seam) .
Cut front section & Interfacing only. Take care not to cut zipper tape.
Flip zipper sides through to wrong side of front section as shown. Close & join zipper back together. Insert slider into opposite side.
As we have cut the corners diagonally, we have created a seam allowance at the lower edge of zipper front opening. (Triangle shape) as shown. Tuck this under to wrong side.
Unpick the remaining stay stitch on interfacing. (If you have not already done so)
Fold front section right sides together as shown.
Stitch seam allowance / triangle shape of front section to the interfacing only. Use a short machine stitch or stitch by hand. This will not be visible on the right side of front section.
This will hold the seam allowance from poking through to the front side. Trim excess interfacing from side & lower edges.
Turn right sides up and press.
Press on a low heat ( test iron heat on a scrap piece of the same fabric)
You can finish here or top stitch the side edges as shown in the next step.
Topstitch option. Top stitch seam edges on both sides of zipper.
Top Stitch front section to zipper on outer edges of seam lines as shown.
Stitch through all thicknesses of front section, zipper tape & interfacing. Do not try and sew across lower edge.
Pictured Enclosed Chunky zipper
Topstitched on outer side edges.
This pattern tutorial written by Sharon Cowie for Swim Style patterns.
Copy write belongs to Swim Style patterns.
This tutorial is designed & recommended for use in Swim Style Rashie suit & top patterns.
-Grace Rashie suit & top pattern women
-Gina Rashie suit pattern women
-Rashie top /swim vest women
-Splashy rashie pattern girls
This tutorial is also available as a free download.