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  • Jazz One piece & bikini Tutorial

    The Jazz One piece & bikini patterns, both include sewing techniques of Making Cups from wadding & Ruche detail.
    On this page you will find tips on stitching ruche & wadding sections.
    Also tips of how to improve the look of your Jazz Swimwear by adding extra layers of lining & a few short cuts to save time on your make.
    How to Stitch wadding sections to create cups for Jazz One piece & bikini patterns.

    No seam allowance
    Cup sections are cut from Wadding. Wadding is a type of foam fabric. Its generally about 3mm thick or just over 1/8 of an inch thick.
    Wadding is commonly used to make cups. Its very handy to have some in your sewing stash. You can always make your own cups, if you cannot purchase them. You can purchase it from many fabric stores or Bra lingerie suppliers.

    In this step, You are stitching the top & lower wadding sections together of the cups. Stitch top to lower section of each cup by placing the seam edges together, do not overlap. Match circle dots as shown at top to lower sections. Stitch cups together using a wide zig zag stitch to hold sections together. There is no seam allowance at this step.


    As you can see , the edges of the wadding are aligned together. A wide zig zag stitch will catch each side & hold it in position. There is no overlapping of edges.

    Stitch top to lower across horizontal seam line .


    Completed cups. Shown here sewn together by the wide zig zag stitch. You can use other wide stitches also. A cover stitch will also work on this step .


    Lining the Outer cups sections with lining.
    This is a tip for a Smoother finish to the Outer Cups.
    The sewing instructions -read to Cut 2 of the Outer cup sections.
    Here we are recommending you also Cut 2 of the Outer cup pattern piece from the lining fabric.

    Lining the Outer cup sections of the Jazz One piece & bikini .

    (This lining layer will be sandwiched between the Outer Cup section & the wadding sections at a later step.) The lining will help prevent seeing ridges from the wadding seam. This is often more visible in light coloured fabrics & prints.


    Our Next tip is Stitching the Centre front
    At this point we are up to closing the centre front. The binding is sewn to the top edges & I have attached the loop using bra casing tape for the detachable straps.
    As you can see the excess binding on the back section is curling up, I will trim that later.
    I also choose to sew the lycra strip across the cup seams using my cover stitch machine.
    The directions read as below, I will be making the most simple version of the Jazz bikini top, which is the Detachable straps version with no straps threaded through the centre front seam.
    Sewing directions
    Centre front 3 versions follow instructions for your style. (I will be following the Detachable shoulder straps option)
    Detachable shoulder straps, Centre straps & V-wire style.
    Prepare centre fronts top section. Check centre front gather edges are still even.
    V-wire version skip this step go to instructions V-wire style Casing centre seam.
    Detachable shoulder straps & Centre straps instructions

    I have aligned the centre fronts and stitched from the top to lower edges. Stitch just on the very edge of the centre front wadding. This will make it easier to sew and a stronger seam. You can use a straight stitch here.

    On the next step Open casing
    You are instructed to stitch a gather stitch 2cm or ¾ inch out from the centre seam . You than draw in the stitching row to tighten the outer edges of the seam allowance.
    Press the seam open. The instructions then advise to stitch the open seam edges to top section by sewing a row either side of the centre front seam.
    As I am not making a casing I have decided to stitch the open edges of the centre front seam to the wadding / spacer layer. There will be no visible stitching at the centre front.
    How to
    Option – This is not in the sewing steps. You can also stitch the seam edges to the wadding / spacer on each side . This will hold the seam edges open without stitches showing through on the front outer section.
    As you can see the wadding / spacer is not sewn to the lower edge ,you can open this to stitch the centre front seam allowance to the wadding/ spacer section. Fold the outer section away as you sew.
    I have drawn in stitch marks in black on the photograph above.
    Drawing below from instructions.
    There are many variations of how to stitch the seam allowance to the top section.
    The drawing below shows stitch line 2cm or 3/4 of inch either side of centre seam. Here you can also see the gather stitch on outer edges ( not shown in photograph above)

    This all might sound a little complicated but all variations are covered in the sewing directions.

    The final part of this step, trim the excess seam allowance from each side.

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